Sarajevo from the perspective of a non-political and ill-informed foreigner
Living in Sarajevo as an expat is truly a rewarding experience. The city’s mix of old-world charm, rich cultural heritage, and modern conveniences makes it a fantastic place to call home. Whether you’re exploring the picturesque streets of Baščaršija, chatting with a local over coffee, or enjoying the nearby mountains, Sarajevo has something for everyone. The pace of life is relaxed, the cost of living is low, and the people are warm and welcoming. Yes, there are challenges, but they are part of what makes life here so unique. Sarajevo is a place that grows on you, and once you find your rhythm, you’ll start to understand why so many expats fall in love with this city.
Living in Sarajevo as an Expat: What it’s Really Like
Sarajevo, the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a city that feels like it’s caught between two worlds. It’s where East meets West; where Ottoman influences blend seamlessly with Austro-Hungarian architecture (there’s even a line on Ferhadija Street marking the divide), and where the recent war, along with centuries of diverse cultures and religions, has shaped a truly vibrant atmosphere.
As an expat living here, you’ll find that the city has a unique charm that’s hard to resist, yet day-to-day life does come with its own challenges.
It’s difficult to know what to expect when you first arrive in the city. Beyond the usual tourist sites, it can be difficult to find information about what everyday life is really like. With its deep history and cultural mix, Sarajevo may feel overwhelming at first. But over time, the city’s true beauty reveals itself. The cobbled streets of Baščaršija, the lively cafés along the Miljacka River, the unmistakable warmth of the people, it’s a city that welcomes you, even if at first, you’re not entirely sure what you’re doing here at first.
Cultural Heritage and Diversity
Sarajevo’s cultural landscape is unlike any other. You’ll find yourself surrounded by a melting pot of cultures and religions. You can stroll through neighborhoods that showcase Ottoman mosques, Austro-Hungarian buildings, and Yugoslav-era monuments, all sitting side by side. The stunningly preserved old town, Baščaršija, is a perfect example of Sarajevo’s unique blend of cultural influences, where you can buy Bosnian coffee (which Bosnians will vehemently deny is the same as Turkish coffee), try local ćevapi, or explore the historic Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque.
Cost of Living and Practicalities
One of the things that might surprise you when living in Sarajevo is the relatively low cost of living compared to other European cities. You’ll find that rent can be affordable, especially if you’re used to living in larger, more expensive cities. Eating out at local restaurants and bakeries, in particular, can be incredibly cheap!
That said, living in Sarajevo is not without its challenges. Navigating the bureaucracy of Bosnia and Herzegovina can be a challenge, as systems can often feel outdated or unnecessarily complicated. Things like residency permits, registering your address, buying a car can be complicated, unless you have someone to help you. While English is widely spoken (particularly amongst the younger generation), it is not always the norm in governmental agencies (such as the Department of Foreign Affairs and local police stations). Of course there are always Bosnian courses available to help hone your language skills.
Weather and Outdoor Activities
Sarajevo’s weather varies greatly depending on the season. Winters can be cold and snowy, with temperatures sometimes dropping well below freezing. But these cold temperatures make for the perfect excuse to explore the nearby ski resorts. Skiing and snowboarding are popular activities here, with Jahorina and Bjelašnica mountains just a short drive away. Summer, on the other hand, brings warm temperatures and plenty of outdoor activities. Hiking in the city’s surrounding mountains is a popular summer activity. Thanks o its many nearby waterfalls and lakes, Sarajevo is an ideal destination for outdoor enthusiasts.
Funny Observations from life in Sarajevo
Bosnian Language
Although these are technically different languages (wars have been fought, after all), and keeping in mind that I am in no way an expert on anything, they are also… exactly the same. Just with some different words (apparently Croatia even has a yearly contest to replace foreign words with newly invented Croatian ones) and the occasional extra letter thrown in here and there.
Every time I thought I was making progress and starting to get the language, some new grammar concept would pop up.
Okay, I get the words-having-genders thing. Yay!
Oh, cases… Seven of them.
So basically, every word can have 3 genders x 7 cases = 21 forms.
Why????
Okay, I still don’t understand why the cases are there, but at least they are mostly regular and logical to apply or at least recognisable. I’ll never get any of them right, but that’s fine. People don’t get mad when I mess them up; they just stare at me blankly while trying to decode what I’m attempting to say. Eventually, they realise I used the wrong case, and everything is fine – they bravo me for trying and all is well.
A few lessons later: Oh, there are aspects now- svršeni i nesvršeni glagoli. Something to do with whether the action is finished or ongoing…or honestly, this is the part where my brain sort of gave up.
Slavs are geniuses. They somehow calculate the gender of a word they’re going to use ten words later in a sentence, figure out which case it should be in, decide whether the action is finished or not, and then magically apply all that from the beginning, to form a perfectly coherent sentence.
Geniuses!
For some phrases useful at a market, see the markets page. Looking for some swearwords? Click here..